Food, man. Food.
It’s finally game time for this blog post, buckle in fans,
it is going to be a long one. You’re going to get a list here, people.
People always seem to ask “whats your favourite food/what do
you like to eat”. Are you kidding me? Take me to an all you can eat and I’ll
kick your butt any day of the week. India Gate can just sense it when I am on
my way there.
Food was literally my #1 fear coming into this. Now, I know
this sounds silly, but I love food, and I am always concerned that someone
around me is hungry and trying to be polite and not saying anything. Meaning
even in my dorm room there was always lots of food to bring or to offer people.
Before I came here I was reading about the Nigerian
militants that abducted a French family from the North of Cameroon, thinking
“but what will I eat”. Such a thing in
my life.
Now, let’s talk about Cameroonian food.
I am into my 3rd month now so I am starting to
get a pretty good handle on the food here. There are some things that I love,
but some I am not too hot on, let’s just be honest. Think I’m being picky?
Probably, but when was the last time you ate at a Cameroonian restaurant? What
about the last time you SAW a Cameroonian restaurant? Yeah, I thought so. Let
me give you a brief breakdown of food, please excuse any spelling errors, I am
spelling everything phonetically.
Top 20 Most Popular Cameroonian Food Items (in my life)!
1. Achoo – The
traditional meal for the North West Region. Consists of pounding coco yams and
bananas and a few other things into a thick paste. Then you make a bowl/ring on
your plate of the paste and add the soup into the bowl/ring. The soup consists
of a few spices and things, but the main ingredients are red palm oil and large
chunks of cow. You then scoop this soup up with a finger full of the paste and
eat it. The texture when properly combined is similar as to what the name would
suggest.
2. Jama-jama/fried
vegetables/ huckleberry – It is little plant leaves wilted and then fried
with oil, tomato and onion. Usually served with boiled yam or plantain, or
fou-fou.
3. Fou-Fou – Now
there are 2 kinds of fou-fou, water fou-fou made with… something, coco yam
maybe, and fou-fou corn, made with, you guessed it, corn. I don’t know how to
describe this other than a lump. It is kindof like bread dough, it a little
ball, but much, much denser and white. You pull off a lump and use it to help
scoop up whatever you are eating it with. Not much of a taste, so no major
complaints of my part.
4. Enkwong (Eh-kwon)
– This our coworker showed us how to make and it was super delicious. It is
usually served with crayfish, but we omitted that and I was a really big fan of
the end result. You grate coco yams, on something like a cheese grater and it
becomes a paste, like paper mache paste, and then you add some spices and roll
the paste into little springroll-esque things in coco yam leaves. Once you have
a pot full of little coco yam springrolls you cook them and add a pile of
spices and palm oil and it is like spicy deliciousness. Big fan of this one,
but it is very labour intensive to make.
5. Blackened/ Burned
Corn – Just corn that you toss by a fire and keep turning it until it is
all ‘cooked’ or black. Then you don’t bite into it, you pick the little kernels
off and pop them in your mouth like jelly beans. It is actually really good,
and really fun to pick the little kernels off. It is also really easy to share
with little fingers or animals that may be wandering too, which is nice. This I
ate a lot of this in the village, but you can buy it on the street side in the
city, as well as plums cooked in the same way.
6. Jerome Rice –
Basically rice just spiced with Maggi and a pile of veggies. Really good if fish
hasn’t been added. (Author’s Note: unsure of the name, I have heard this alled
a few different things, but this is what I think I heard the family in Santa
saying)
7. Smashed Irish
– Potatoes here are called ‘Irish potatoes’, so when you want a few more fries
with your meal, you don’t ask for more fries, you ask for more fried Irish.
Basically, this one is just mashed potatoes sans garlic and butter, plus black
beans. Not bad. I also like the name because it makes me think of leprechaun
stumbling through a clover field after a little too much enjoyment.
8. Spaghetti Omelets
– Spaghetti cooked and then beaten with the eggs (and usually onion and tomato)
then fried. So you’re eating an omelet with pasta in it. I know this sounds
weird, but I promise when there are no breakfast sandwiches to be had, this
thing really takes the edge off. It would probably be weird without Maggi
(which can be found later in this post) but with it is just glorious. Omelets
overall are very popular, my absolute go to.
9. Ndole – I
don’t even know what this is exactly but I don’t like it. It is boiled peanuts,
ground with leaves. It is fishy and served with fou-fou corn or boiled yams and
I want nothing to do with it. Everyone except me really likes it, so it must be
a texture thing for me. Clearly my favourite dish.
10. Ground Nut Soup
– Nji’s mom’s Ground Nut soup changed my life. Actually. Ground Nut = Peanut.
So it is a spicy peanut soup, but it isn’t a ‘soup’ persay. It is more like a
sauce that you add to rice. It is so good, and if I come home only being able
to make 1 Cameroonian dish, I want it to be this.
11. Pepper Soup –
Several variations dependent on the meat, but the pepper soup is always the
same (goat meat is popular). Kindof like a thinner spicy gravy. Really good if
it isn’t too runny/oily. Again, Nji’s
mom makes the best version I have tried. (Author’s Note: Nji’s mom is a really
really good cook, and sends food to the house often. Like a Cameroonian version
of the East Indian neighbours I had growing up, always sending over the most
delicious food that you could never replicate yourself properly, but enjoy
eating very much)
12. Fried Plantains
– If the plantains are cooked all the way through and nice and crispy, hook me
with a vat. Just sliced plantains deep fried like French fries. And they make
everything better.
13. Fish and Bubbalo
– I would be doing my beloved roommate a dishonor if I did not mention fish and
bubbalo. It is an entire fish (I don’t know the kind, when you ask the response
is either “fresh” or “smoked”) cooked on a grid over coals. You are served an
entire fish and you just pick the meat off with your fingers. With it comes
bubbalo, which is basically soaked coco yams, pressed through cheesecloth, then
the juice makes something that looks and tastes like a very large, 1/2”
diameter Korean noodle cut into 1 1/2” segments.
14. Beans and Puff
Puffs – There is a lady that makes them on the end of our street weekday
evenings, so when I am too lazy to cook, we get takeout of beans and puff
puffs. And 600 CFA later ($1.20 CDN), we have a meal big enough to feed 3 with
leftovers. Beans, just black beans usually, cooked in some sort of delicious
oily sauce. Puff Puffs are really light fluffy deep fried spheres of dough.
Crispy on the outside, airy on the inside. They are about the size of a big
timbit. You eat them with beans, and with pepper, but as of late I want to roll
them in cinnamon sugar and pretend it is a timbit. So delicious. I love puff
puffs, and at 25 CFA ($0.05 CDN) a pop it is a vice my stipend funds. If I
really am what I eat, I would like to thank you, Canadian tax payer, for
turning me into a puff puff.
15. Pig Ears – Ok,
let’s be honest, this one isn’t popular, but they did try to serve us pig ears
at a cry die we went to. They would very proud to be offering this to us so we couldn’t
say no. We then regifted them to the people behind us and they were thrilled.
16. White Beans –
Literally, just white beans cooked in the same oily deliciousness. Usually
served with fried Irish, fried plantain, or rice. A chop shop favourite; a
restaurant we go to has no name, or at least we don’t know the name, but they
make really great white beans, so we affectionately call it the ‘white bean
place’.
17. Chicken and Stew
–Chicken normally means a quarter chicken, how it is cooked depends on where
you go. Stew is basically a runny tomato paste with spice that you can put on
rice. Quite good as a matter of fact if it has a good spice to tomato ratio.
18. Beer – Not
food, but no meal is complete without a Castel, Export, or in my case, usually
a Booster.
19. Smoked Fish –
This really brings stuff to a whole new level. You can buy these creepy
critters anywhere. They are sold at both food, and main market, and along the
street. It is a black fish, like burned, it looks like charcoal. It smells like
the bubble in the harbour popped and enveloped and exploded everything in the
Atlantic with it. They are in a circle; they are cooked, and presented so the
mouth of the fish is biting the tail of the fish. I don’t even know what the
word self-cannibalism is, but these fish are certainly embracing it. I would
also like to say that I have never seen anyone ever purchase or eat one of
these, so I don’t know what is going on with them.
20. Koki – There
are 2 kinds of koki, corn koki, which I am not a big fan off because the corn
can’t be grinded as well so there are still little kernels (again, it’s a
texture thing), and bean koki, made with beans, obviously. So what is koki? I
don’t even fully know. It is mashed corn or bean, with a lot of oil and some
spice wrapped in a banana leaf and boiled (I think). It is good though. There is a lady by the
office that makes bean koki, and so you can get a serving (MORE than enough for
lunch) with a boiled plantain for 200CFA ($0.40 CDN).
You can make a bold and solid assumption that 2 ingredients
in some amount, are in every single Cameroonian meal:
First, Palm Oil. Sometimes it is red if it is a more
traditional dish, usually just regular bleached oil.
Second, and more delicious, Maggi. Maggi is (are? The cubes
are singular, but you buy them in multiples) little cubes of heaven. It is a
spice cube, kindof like adding a cube of stock to a meal for flavor. But they
are quite small, and I can’t even describe the flavor because it is like
nothing I have ever had before. Maggi is in breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Always. I even cook with it in the house now. Eggs? Maggi. Rice? Maggi.
Vegetables? Maggi. So. Good. I am sending my mother home with a crate of it.
In other food news, Dana and I ended up at a gathering of
mostly American Baptists last week and they had PIZZA. And it was AWESOME. We
slaughtered our pieces in like 20 seconds flat and after only spoke about how
beautiful that moment was. We also found a little bakery that sells pizza
sometimes, which isn’t nearly as good as the stuff the American’s made but it
really helped cut the Kenny’s cravings (which are starting to get really out of
control). Also, apparently there is a really great monkey head restaurant in
Yaoundé, we will see what happens when we go to pick my mom up at the airport,
but I feel like Lynch will tell NTV terrible things about me if I don’t at
least try it. Stay tuned for that one.
I have stopped torturing myself with food blogs, but still
spend at least a little time everyday thinking about what I am going to eat
when I get home. I don’t even want to speak of the food I am missing because it
will bring too much pain to write about it. Luckily, my mother has stopped
being specific about food that she has been eating so I don’t get sad thinking
about it.
If my list has made you hungry or curious and a trip to
Cameroon isn’t in your future, just go to Maryland. I am not joking. Maryland
is little Cameroon; all the Cameroonians flock there. You can eat Achoo and
drink Export. Seriously. I feel like it is the Cameroonian version of Fort Mac.
Want a Cameroonian? Go to Maryland. Want a Newfoundlander? Go to Fort Mac. Same
thing.
Well, this has been a lengthily blog post, and the omelet
Kanjo made me is ready, so I will end this now.
Sending all my love to my best friend Shila LeBlanc today,
the most beautiful birthday girl. Since you are now 23, we have to eat 23
timbits during debrief. Each. In one sitting. Game on. I’ll be the one weeping
in your arms when we reunite. For her birthday, you should all go check out
Shila’s blog, she is in Botswana and doing fantastic work!
www.shilaandbotswana.blogspot.ca
All my love,
Maura